Musings on traveling alone

1. Traveling internationally and got an eight hour layover?  Take an alarm clock.   First check out the airport; that should take about 30 minutes most places, and how many ‘duty free’ chocolate/booze places can one visit?  Next find a gate where the chairs do not have arms.  Stake out an end set of chairs, set up your alarm clock and take a snooze.  That should kill another hour; so lay there and pretend and just listen.  No one talks, except the load speaker, so play “guess that sound” as people rustle different sounding newspapers, or “guess the nationality” as the announcements are translated into English.  I’m in the Frankfort airport right now and everyone is being told to ‘conjugate at their gate’.  I don’t think that’s a German to English translation!

2.  Take your sewing machine with you in your carry-on.  When the scanners can’t recognize all the wiring you can relieve their tedium when you unveil your machine.

3. The hardest part of traveling alone is you have to take your roll-on to the bathroom with you.

4. How do you know how to space your meds when you’ve been running around for 48 hours and it’s still Saturday?  Or how do you monitor your caloric intake for the day?  Or do you just say the heck with it?

5. Discovered something new.  Not sure if it is possible in other airports but here my gate is way off the beaten path.  So far off that I came early and am enjoying complete peace; not even any ‘conjugate!’ commands!

holiday lights in Tbilisi

The holiday lights have finally come on.  Each morning and every evening I would expectantly check them out.  Yes, I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark, but hopefully don’t work in the dark.  The lights have finally lit up and what a fairy world the streets have become especially in the morning when there is so little traffic on them.  Above Chavchavadze Street floats large chandeliers while what appear to be enormous lit Christmas ornaments of the Cinderella ilk float above Rushevilli.  Icicles literally drip down above side streets while other streets have poinsettias hanging above them. (There are tubes hanging among the icicle lights that have a slow moving spot of light constantly drifting down.)  The many bridges over the river are outlined in lights, plus one bridge is cover with a complete canopy of lights while several others have small winged chandeliers hanging above.  Other streets have doves and elm leaves suspended above them, or strings of stars.  The only angles I’ve seen are large ‘lawn ornaments’ outside the Parliament building.  Stores do have Christmas trees but they are not traditional to the culture.  The western version of Santa is becoming known here in Tbilisi as there are so many Americans present.  The Georgian Santa is a friendly grandfatherly figure that lives in the mountains.  But they both bring presents to good little boys and girls.  Only the Georgian children have to wait until Jan 7, Epiphany, as Dec 25 is not a major celebrated holiday by the Church.  As I will be back here by the 7^th I will be able to enjoy both, and bring gifts back from the states.

New breed of store clerks

As I take my weekly walk down Chavchavadze towards Freedom Square I pass a jewelry store.  And usually I just pass the window and stare appreciatively at the necklaces.  I ventured in once but the clerk gave me the distinct warning that I was not wealthy enough to afford their wares.  Oh those who don’t understand what blue jean pockets can hold.  So pass by I did until one necklace caught my eye, a cascade of enamel butterflies forming a V with some riding higher than others.  In I went to brave the skepticism of the clerk.  But a man was on duty that day so I ventured to ask the price.  As he leaned into the showcase to read the price tag a very, very business-like pistol protruded from his waistband.   He quoted me 19,000 Lari.  I think he added an extra zero but with his armed advantage I didn’t question, just walked out.  Bought a different necklace at a bazaar.  Running up and down Chavchavadze are little yellow buses called marshrutkas.  These are frightening experiences for foreigners or at least this foreigner and I have never tried one as they are decrepit, crowded and confusing.  But as I partook in my window shopping one day out stepped three black clad armed guards; seriously armed guards, like with sawed off machineguns.  As they approached the jewelry store I thought “What did those Georgian passengers think of standing tightly together with a machinegun pressed against one’s spine”.  But looking at the people in the departing bus no one seemed to have noticed!

100 Cave Churches

Karabakh is the mountainous region (European Caucasus Minors) that boarders Republic of Armenia.  The brochure we picked up at the caves called the area the churches of Armenia but several years ago the two countries finally agreed the area belonged to Georgia (or as finally as any disagreement around here seems to be settled).  As we left Tbilisi we saw several cars parked along side the road with their tunks open.  Hanging from the trunk lid where hugh fish for sale.

We were soon climbing into the southern foothills and everything looked like dried weeds (can't even say grass).  The towns are a few buildings that appear deserted until you look closer.  Most have a very soviet appearance; aka. block structure with regimented window openings.  Most of the old apartment buildings (or barracks, not sure which) are used to store hay bales.  The terrain is very rough and it is hard to visualize how they can bale anything here.  Some areas have been burnt off so better grass can grow next spring.  There was electricity out there but I doubt if there was any other modern conveniences.  Had to use the restroom at the monastery - new experience.  Two places marked on the floor for your feet and a hole in the ground!

As we climbed even higher we started to see rectangles marked out as fields.  Some were connected and some were scattered.  They grow wheat up there and I saw some corn stubble.  Saw an implement dealer on the way out and one tractor on the road but none in the fields and none parked even near a field.  Actually there were no buildings of any kind in view of the fields.  But the terrain could have easily hid an entire compound.   

They graze a lot of sheep and goats, and occasionally a small herd of cows.  How those cows climb some of the hills is amazing.  Then we saw some at the monastery grazing as they headed down-hill - should have tumbled head over tail!

The road was paved most of the way but the potholes put any in Nebraska to shame.  And when the driver swerved around them I swear he always swerved to within an inch of the drop off.  No wonder they pray a lot.

We went up to visit the church caves.  These are actual man-made caves carved into the face of solid rock cliffs.  There is reputed to be 100 of them; many you can see by looking up but can’t climb there.  They were discovered by a monk in 400AD and estimated to have been built in 200AD.  It is still a monastery today but they have two solar panels and a satellite dish!  The monk’s homes are carved into the rock around a central court and they get to them by climbing steppes also carved into the rock.  They have large underground cisterns to collect water and a systems of canals dug into the rock face to direct runoff to the cisterns.  I would estimate the face was a 60 degree slope so how they carved the canals is a big question.
We then hiked around the back of the mountains and on up to the top, which took almost 2 hours.   The trail was narrow and rocky and there were some pretty nasty drop-offs close to the trail side.  What we were following was the Armenian/Georgian boarder which is marked by a metal pipe.  Sometimes we were on the wrong side so I get to say I was in Armenia!  We  ate in a cave were one of Armenia’s Kings hid out.  While there two border guards with their machine guns came by and checked us out.  They were Georgian and I wondered what would have happened if they had been Armenian; but Julia said it s no different than being checked at the airport.  I really don’t remember any machine guns at Eppley!
The cave churches were amazing.  They had not only carved out the caves in a shear wall facing the Armenian foothills but they had carved in altars and kneeling benches.  Then they had somehow hauled a plaster up there and painted the walls and ceilings with frescos.  Some of these ceilings were 10 feet high and openings were flush with a tremendous drop-off.  The paintings were very well done and still bright even though painted 200 AD and exposed to the elements.  No known explatation.

One monk still lives up there.  He has a door constructed in the cave opening but access was by a 2 by 8 with a second chunk of board nailed to the end to make it long enough, and no reinforcement.  There are two cross rungs starting 6 feet up (assumed he had to nail on another when he climbed up but took it off otherwise so no one could bother him).  If that wasn’t scary enough, the edge of the board was propped only 4 inches from the face of the cliff.  Hope he doesn't sleep walk as there is no where to go but down.

Could look out for miles across Armenia, just rolling foothills and a large lake in the distance.  Very quiet and peaceful with a large eagle (or buzzard) riding the wind.  As we climbed down the bells were ringing for vespers and the sun was begining to set.

Another Cultural Evening

Thursday had a strange Georgian cultural evening.  Went out for supper - ordered pickles (which consisted of a sliced dill, 3 pickled banana peppers and what I swear was pickled mustard weed like what I used to cut out of the soybeans!), mixed olives (all where the same black olives)and Georgian bread selection (they selected one loaf).  I made sandwhich out of all of it together and liked it!  Not sure which part of this was the strangest.  We started at 5:30 and sudddenly realized it was 1 1/2 hours later - eating just takes forever.  But trying to hurry anyone to give you your bill just doesn't happen. 

Grabbed a taxi and showed him our theater tickets with the address in Georgian on it.  He had no idea where the street was (even I knew how to get there).  So had to find a second taxi - he thought he knew.  We thought we would be late by the time the driver stopped for the third time to ask for directions.  Ended up on this two lane street with 3 lanes of cars headed towards the theater and one car trying to leave.  At that point we got out and walked.  Therre were two amazing theaters on the next block; one with people standing around and one with no one.  Later I found out the large beautifully lit building was an empty shell they are just now starting to renovate.  The theater we were in was just finished this year and is amazing with marble pillars and floors, plaster murals and glass doors on the bathrooms!  The show was of Georgian folk singing; which started out with this lecture on the folk singing group of past fame.  Or so I think that was what was going on as everything was in Georgian and afterwards two elderly gentleman came forward to a lot of aplause and whistles.  (Must have been the Georgian answer to the Beatles.)  Then the different groups came out; very unique singing, something called polyphonic singing.  The last group, professionals that backup an international dance group, were amazing.  They had such volume and resonance their voices filled the hall.  But for me, the most enjoyable was the all women's band that played instruments I never seen before, string and wind, as well as drums, with fingers moving so fast I couldn't see them.  One instrument was played as a fiddle held in her lap which a bow that looked like a hacksaw but the 'fiddle' also had a neck that she blew in and played like a flute!  All done at the same time.  I need to ask one of my students what the instrument is called and what this type of combo is called.  Afterwards, as I waited for my group to meet at the door I once again noticed the strange phenomina: every woman was wearing black, including me!

Turkish Baths

Several of us teachers went to the Turish baths last night.  One of the old-timers (anyone here more than 2 years) convinced us new-timers to try it.  When he said bathing suits I was in.  It was fun.  Went to Old Town, where Tbilisis started.  There are six different baths run by different entities.  Each bath has several rooms you can rent. The one we went to used to be a mosque.  Beautiful mosaics outside and very clean inside.  The sulfur smell is rather overwhelming to start but the water was a welcoming hot and the cold plunge pool was cold enough to cool the beers.  Two of the ladies had scrubs and couldn't believe the dead skin that peeled off.  I may have to try that if I go the next time.  As we came out the hills above us were lit and we could see the ruins of the old castle and church high above us.  The air was warm and friendly.
Went out to eat afterwards, of course, and tried a number of Georgian foods.  Not real excited about any of it, though the others thought the food delicous.  I liked the spinach spread and the grits with cheese best; but definitely not the gravey for the grits.  The company was great and the live music enjoyable so definitely a fun night.
Just received my first engraved invite to an embassy function, a b-b-q.  Now that sounds like good eating.

grocery stores

Just came back from trying to find lemon jello for a science lab.  Couldn't find any jello anywhere.  Come to think of it there has been no jello dishes at any of our potluck dinners.  Need to change that for next year.

Also noticed in our "big" grocery store there are two aisles of cooking oil, 6 of liquor and 4 for everything else.  Priorities!  A one-cup jar of peanut butter is 6 gel (about $4 American) and tuna is a find.  If you find a foreign brand of something you want get it because it is quite possible you will never see it again.  There is Coke Zero but that is the only diet pop available.  It is good with fresh lime squeezed in.  Bread is cheap; I found a flat loaf probably a foot diameter and 2inch high for .80 gel (50 cents) and it was tastey.  Grapefruit is 6 gel ($4) each! But the streets are full of apple, plum and pear vendors.  I usually shop the streets.

School

Several have asked about the school I teach in.  It is an American School which means it is modeled after those in the states.  This allows students to move more freely between foreign and domestic schools.  Some students are here for two years, some for three. Rarely do they stay any longer.  Some parents are with the US embassy, World Bank, USAid and American businesses starting up here.  One is an international laywer.

Twenty-six nations are represented in the student body and after school many different languages are being spoken.  Today one student told me he speaks 5 different languages fluently - and listed them.  He has lived in numerous countries and has picked up their languages.  I'm living here and can now say good morning (gila mashvidobisa)  I don't greet anyone in the afternoon!  They start the 4-yr-olds with Russian; and they pick it up quickly.  Students have the choice of Russian, German, or French.  We also teach numerous Advance Placement classes with some students graduating with five AP courses.

My largest class is 13 students and the smallest is 4.  Several elementary classes have over 15 students but any more and they get another teacher.  The school is run by an organization headquartered in the US.

When we arrive in the morning the gate must be opened and the under carriage of the car checked for bombs.  There are guards on duty 24/7 but the building is never locked nor are classroom doors closed.

The school pays the locals relatively well which resultts in our having an MD on staff full time, and highly educated elementary class room aids.  One Para is an MD who also has her CPA; another is an archeologist and one I just got to know has her MS is something I don't remember what.

Labs are well set up, lab materials sent in each year; but I can not find yellow jello for my cell lab!  I'll order it for next year.

Dicotomy of Tastes

I went jewlery looking and re-found the necklace I've been coveting.  It still looked goreous, so I priced it and decided I'd better work a while longer.  Like another year!  Then I decided the soft serve ice cream also looked good and since I could afford that I bought some.  Never before have I had the urge to chew my ice cream!

cemetery

Found a cemetery this morning.  Always woundered why there was this large flower market on the corner of a side street off Chevchevousi street.  Figured there had to be a wealthy community back there, so I decided to find out.  When running you can go most anywhere and they just shake their head in amusement.  As I followed the road past the flowers I saw strange looking blocks of cement on the hillside in the distance.  Thought it was either ruins or a cemetery; but I couldn't find a road up.  So I just headed in the general direction; through an active construction site, back and forth up a switchback that didn't appear traveled on, and over a rubble heap.  As I looked up (yes everything seemed up on this trip) I saw an elderly lady walking between the blocks.  Eurika!  It was a cemetery and there definately was another way in.  By the time I got to what I thought would be the first masoleums I had a fantastic view of the city below. 

The cement blocks were actually open on top and held small gardens on top of graves.  Since the hills are limestone I am presuming the burial is above the rock and the grave built up over the casket.  In the gardens there were perpetual lights, dying bouquets of flowers, pictures of loved ones (none seemed to have died of old age), roses-marigolds-fig trees-olive trees- moss roses-yarrow and other flowers growing that I do not know.  Crosses of all discriptions were placed inside the squares.  The most common, and most unique, is a cross that looks like two branches wrapped in place with a cord; but the arms bend downward so the cross takes on the appearance of an arrow shooting towards Heaven.

As I came around a bend in the road the church bells started to toll.  One would think to start services but I think to tell the people to start coming as people started climbing the road with their scarves and hats in hand, but not in any big hurry.  As I looked around I saw the graves stretching for a mile in front of me and and far up over me.  I will explore up there the next time as I found an easier entrance to the place and no one chased me out.  I will have to pack water and food for that hike.

Bazzar

Walked to the bazzar today.  Summer people are back from their vacations and the sidewalks and roads are crowed.  They still drive too fast and walk too slow.  I had the directions to the bazzar, in my apartment, and I was out on the street.  Figured I remembered them so took off.  Was to walk to the Rezadance Hotel first.  Wended my way along the road until I figured I should have been there.  So I stopped in a pharmacy to see if they knew were the hotel was.  Never heard of it.  Shoot.  Decided I'd try just a little further and there it was in all its 30 story wonder with these 20 foot letters on top - one block from the pharmacy!  Next was to follow the cobble stone road as in wound around down to the river.  Which I did but I started out on the wrong side of the road - no room for pedestrians.  As no sidewalk was appearing on my side I tried to cross over.  That was a challenge I almost lost - I'm getting very fleet-of-foot.  Past the first bridal shop I've seen.  Every dress was size 0 (as are the maternity dresses near my street) and two of the manniquins had to be 8 feet tall!  Love to see that bride!  The bride's maid dresses could never be worn again by any stretch of the immagination.  One was empire waisted with bright royal purple skirts, Christmas red bodices and a holly green sash tied around and across the chest!  The other had the same color scheme.

 Crossed the Lion Bridge (these stylistic lions guard the ends hence the name) and continued to the first busy street.  I came to this beautiful little park filled with golden flowers and a quaint clock tower.  Was I given this as a guide?  No.  In a very American way I was told to turn left at the McDonald!  Yes, they are here.  Turned left and came upon the neatest street.  They are tearing the entire street up so there was no traffic; no incessant horns and people walking down the middle of what was left of the street.  Everything was being done by hand.  They were laying the cobble sidewalks; carefully cleaning off each block with a hand pick, laying and the pounding them in place.  A man was wetting down the sand ahead of the layers but using a hose half the size of a garden hose.  Other men were up on scaffolings, hand-repairing the fescos on the faces of the buildings.  They were adding wrought iron balconies and what appeared to be lazer cut ornate wooden balconies with matching overhangs.  Another building was coming down as they slowly jack-hammered out each brick.  All the buildings were getting fresh coats of pink, blue of orange plaster.  Not sure how they plan to lay the center paving.

Continued my journey until I thought again that I was lost.  (Always carry a card with Turkish Embassy  written in Georgian so if I do get lost and can just catch a cab and go home.)  Asked a pair of embassy guards, they're everywhere, if any spoke English.  None did so decided to go just a little further and behold there was the soccor stadium where I was to turn.  Few more blocks and I found the bazzar.  Found the adaptored plugs I had been looking for and the exercise mat I wanted.  Also bought soap and toilet bowl cleaner forgetting I had to carry it all home (and that stuff got heavy).  Then wandered through the maze of booths.  When I finally decided it was time to leave I coudn't find my way out!  Every corner I turned held new booths I had never seen.  These booths are just tiny areas crammed with stuff; with amazing justiposition.  The one I liked the most was the man selling toothpaste and cigerettes.  Climbed some old wooden steps and found some light at the end of the tunnel.  Somehow I had ended up underground and now was up higher on the hill but with no idea as to where.  Found the meat market and NO I did not buy anything there.  The fish were laying in boxes on top of the counters, heads and tails happily attached but no ice around.  The naked chickens still had their feet which were stuck straight up into the air.

 I wandered and climbed until I finally saw the stadium in the distance, so I could then walk home.  In all I had walked for 6 hours so I took a nap!

Lockdowns

This year we are doing three different drills.  The standard fire drill, an earthquake drill and the lockdown-on-steriod drill.  When we go into lock-down everyone goes to the gym which is underground and they lock these big, thick steel doors behind you.  The gym area has access to cameras stationed all over the area (not just the school) and other high-tech communication systems.  If it is a real emergency the embassy people join us.. Not sure what the protocol is if one is running out of room!

When the war broke out here 4 years ago all the citizens were told to go to the schools because that was the safest place.  There were hoards of people coming out of the hills trying to get into the school.  If something were to happen again the same would probably be repeated.  So now the school is surrounded by two layers of fencing and 24 hour guards.  But one still feels perfectly at peace there - probably more so then in some of the state-side intercity schools.

windows

Went to open my classroom windows and they tilled down.  I knew they opened outwards the day before.  Am I losing it?  Checked with teacher across the hall.  NO, turn 90 degrees and they open like a door; turn 180 degrees and they tilt inward.  Awesome.  Went home and tried it.  Worked there also!  Now I have a wonderful breeze coming through.

Running

I've been running in the neighborhood since I came.  Found a strange little park to run in but the paths were primarily rounded cobble stones.  I then tried back streets but they were full of outside cafes and I think I might have been the entertainment.  With a little more exploring I found a major park with running paths.  Running there I joined the ranks of old men and young boys being trained by the old men.  Until one day I heard a whistle and as I came around a corner I was met with a hoard of hugh bodies.  It must have been a rugby team working out!  I just smiled and kept going.

I hadn't realized how unique I must have been until one student came up to me and asked if I ran.  She said she thought she saw me running by the park (out of a city of over 1 million).  Then the next morning some man came up to me and asked if I ran.  Actually he said something in Georgian and made the motion of arms pumping.  I nodded yes and we held a 'conversation' of jestures and incomprehesive words.  I think he was trying to invite me to coffee but I was headed to work.  Then this morning I was greeted again, this time by a little puppy.  I think he wanted to talk also - or maybe just bite my leg.  I was rescued by a little girl (brave girl).

Spent the rest of the day taking pictures around the area.  I must force myself to figure out the uploading process and get some on the net.  The sun is going down and its perfect for a few more I want to take.

New park

Found a new park this morning.  Decided to run towards the ridge and happened on a side entrance.  There are trails winding up through trees and up hills.  There are some of those Scavinadian workout sites but these old men were monopolizing them!  One man had a pole he was using for stretching exercises.  Later I saw him leave the park and hide the pole in the shrubbery.  Probably quite safe there.  As I was headed out of the park, in the direction I thought I should be going I found the front gate with a guard house.  So I found another lane further down then got turned round and came back into the park.  Decided to leave by the main entrance but after I climbed the stairs out I turned around and saw the statute.  So I had to run back across the park and climb the stairs up to King Tamara (a real female king of Georgia).  Her statue has to be 5-6 stories tall and there were 365 steps up to her (I counted them on the way down).  Found a new underpass - goes right under a large fountain that is in the middle of a turn-around.

As I passed the Orthodox church on the way home I heard singing (yes I stopped and walk stately pass) and then realized it was the same service that had been going on a hour ago when I left.  It is the end of one of their four fastings and the church was full with spillover out side.  Never saw it so full, kind of like Easter.  What was fun was the childern were outside planning (a fenced-in area) and teenagers were talking while priests were outside conducting the service.  But when the bell rang, as it periodically did, they all stopped and crossed themselves before resuming their activities.

Museum of Cultural History

Visited the Museum of Cultural History today.  It's in a hugh old stately building which they are renovating (as they are most buildings here).  There are only two exhibits open at this time, other rooms were sealed so I'm not sure what they are working on. 

Up two flights of stairs with no one in sight I found the display of the Russian occupation.  One heart stopping display was the written appeal begging the United States for help which we did not render for whatever reasons.  There was actual footage of the bombings, the looting by officials, the executions and the emigration over the mountains on foot and in snow.  And these mountains are up!  The Russians first killed the wealthy and the religous leaders.  Then the not so wealthy peasants and the  intellectuals. 

The counter revolution was actually started by two fourteen old boys who were executed in their twenties.  But before that the were able to stir up hope in the nation.  These were basically 8th graders!  As some of you know the final step, not in the display, was the War of the Roses.  Turns out when the Russian came back to jack around the Georgians to keep them under control the school I'm teaching at was right between the two armies.  And school went on, no days off for a war.

Three flights down was the archeology display.  The first person I saw was the guard, sound asleep  agains the wall.  Then a guide showed up with her enterage.  I was reading the pictures (sure can't read Georgian) of what not to do inside he room and was trying to decide if the one picture meant no talking or no spitting.  Since the guide continued her speel inside the room and the two guards in there did nothing it must have meant no spitting.  Since there was no such sign for the other display I guess you could spit on the Russians if you so desired.

The  second display was of artifacts found in tombs dating back to 200 BC.  Most were made out of gold with silver coming in second.  They said that very fine flakes of gold floated on the rivers of Tbilisi.  The gold flacks were mined by floating a shaggy goat skin on the water.  The gold flakes would adher to the hairs and could be then harvested.  May be that was where Jason's Golden Fleece originated?!  The craftsmanship on the jewlery was exquisit.  Some of the later peices were imported from Egypt. 

The top floor was somber, the the basement was inspiring.  One the walk home I found an art display of local artisits' works and the artist in attendance.  Going to explore that more closely when I have my budget figured out.

Couple Baby Steps

Took a couple baby steps towards independence this weekend.  Finally found the right slot to put the laundry detergent so clothes gets washed right away.  The last batch smelled ok so will go with them.  Hung clothes off the balcony without dropping them or leaning out too far; looks like a long way down.  Real high point, found an ATM that gives out only small bills.  These little Mom-n-Pop places can't handle the 100 and 50 gel bills.  Took a taxi down town and was able to walk half way across town and find my way home.  And talking about finding one's way home, went out with fellow teachers last night.  Had one, note ONE, glass of local white wine and then had to walk home very carefully!  Most drink the local beers, one even mixes hers with 7-up (that may be a Canadian thing).

Interesting observations

Just some random "sightings"
Every morning as I head out to work I see pentioners "those collecting retirement" out cleaning the roads.  This means they are out along the four lane highways sweeping the curb-sides with brooms.  Every 20 feet or so they make a small pile which they will come back to and pick up.  They will clean several miles of road using brooms made of reeds tied to the end of the bamboo-like handle.  Some of them use the traditional very short handle so they do all this work stooped over.  They are proported to be happy to have the job as their pension amounts to $60 a month.  There are also those who sweep the sidewalks the same way so the main streets are very clean even thought the trees are constantly dropping their leaves and the peolpe their litter.

Out in the country side men wash their cars constantly.  I watched one man use a pop bottle of water to clean all the little specks off.  And they lovingly polish and polish.

There are dogs here (Caucasian shepards) that have been bred to fight the wolves who are very aggressive here.  These dogs are hugh, tough and love to fight.  They have become a problem in the city, though mainly to the cats.  But I have heard a pack of them going nuts just down the street - so I don't run that way.  Aren't I smart!

As for running, its a matter of dodging holes, ruts, broken cobblestones and people.  Most don't seem to understand why anyone would want to move fast; but they are getting used to seeing me.

I'm living in an area of a lot of embassies.  There are guards all around and I finally got a Turkish guard to return my greeting and a Chek guard to answer a question.  Just hope I don't start some incident.

washing clothes

I know, I was going to write about drivers but then last night I took a chance and turned on the clothes washer.  The school has a similar washer so one of the janitors panomined how to use it for me. Tried the whites first - they can  handle the mistakes better.  I opened the slot for the detergent and it was crusted black.  So I had to scrape that off first.  Then in goes the undies and out comes half of them.  It's what one would call a minimum capacity machine.  Turned it on and locked the door and waited.  The water came in, the machine rocked some then sat and thought about what it had done.  Decided it could rock some more - but just a little.  This continued for 20 mminutes and finally water cycled so the detergent came in.  Then again rock-n-think and rock-n-think for another 20 min.  Finally spun, rinsed and then really spun.  First one way and then the other.  The second load I worried about and watched too closely; it was my good clothes.  When the soap didn't go in when I thought it should I started to push buttons and turn knobs.  Really messed things up and when I finally ignored the machine it washed my clothes but the whole process took about 1 1/2 hours.  So at 10pm I hung clothes out on the balcony and went to bed.  When I got home tonight everything was dry and fairly wrinkle free.  So I'll probably wash again next week.  So until thing 'sweat smellin' dreams'.

Food in Tbilisi

The fruit here is what I remember from the farm.  Still don't care for the carrots and haven't seen green beans (thank you very much) but the Kiwi is great.  Peaches are definitely not cing-free but accessible with a knife.  They are delicous.  Cereal is expensive but I love the Musilex so I don't care.  The school cooks are phenominal and I plan to get all my basic needs met at noon.  They cook/bake everything from scratch and also have snack breaks for the entire school.  I think they call them studyhalls with food.  Yes they take their food seriously here.

The last night of meetings we had a typical georgian supra. Started at 5:30 with bread and wine (also bottles of water and fizzy fruit drinks for those of us who can't keep up).  Then they served us these small icecream-cone shaped cheese made of a thin slice of cheese rolled as a cone and filled with a creamy cottage cheese with mint filling.  Also an eggplant like veg rolled around a walnut spread, trout fried with their heads on, and slabs of a soft, mild white cheese.  Next course was pockets of bread filled with cheese and a wonderful green sauce made from berries found only in Georgia.  Next course: mushroom grilled in their own sauce and something else I don't remember.  Finally fantastic grilled chicken and b-b-q pork served in small peices.  Somewhere in there two cow horns showed up for drinking the wine (one in my hand)!  I tried it but by the time I got to the wine I was tilled almost horizontally so probably won't try that again.  Their were many toasts through out the meal, towards the end I was toasting with an empty glass!

Some finished with vodka when the live music started.  One player of the combo also serves as our band director at school.  He can not speak a word of English but communicates some how so that the band is very good according to the heads of the school.  Then a trio took stage who sang ballads.  Couldn't understand a word but the Georgians around us were crying so it must have been sad.  Reminded me alot of music I've heard in Mexico.

Next post will be on my experiences so far with drivers.

I'm Back

I finally got internet.  Things just take longer when communicating in a foreign language and when one is tec-challenged it just takes even longer.  Everything comes up in Georgian and I have to find the UK icon to function.

To continue the saga:  I arrived in Omaha with 4 bags to check, one roll-on and a carry-on weighing more then the big bags.  As I put each bag on the scale if it was under 50lbs I stuffed in books until it hit 50!  English language books will be at a premium in Georgia and I'm not taking a chance until I can get the Nook up and going.  Jim waited patiently as I unpacked and repacked to hit the 50lb bulls-eye.  Sent some clothes home but no books.  Then through the security check.  My roll-on went through the scanner, then back and through again, and again and again.  Finally it passed but they asked me what was in there that had all those wires.  I couldn't think what they were refering to until I remembered the sewing machine was in there. 

The flight was long but uneventful.  On the Chicago flight they offered to check my roll-on but I was afraid to put the sewing machine in the hold.  By the time I manuvered the London airport (try using the facilities with two very heavy and clumsy bags!) when they offered to check the roller I agreed.  The gentleman filled out the forms but when I mentioned there was drugs in the bag he tore the forms up.  They could not be responsible.  So once again I unpacked and repacked and finally got it checked.  Got to Heathrow and the stalls were so large you could have taken an elephant in with you.  But it was still nice not to have the extra bag.

Arrived in Tbilisi and only had to go through passport; no work Visa needed here - they really like Americans.  I collected my luggage (filled that cart) and met the three gentlemen from QSI who took me to a grocery store and then to the apartment.  The apartment is behind the Turkish embassy with all their guards and there is a security booth across the street.  In fact I can't go a block without running into a policeman.  I feel very safe.

The apartment is hugh from my expectations.  There is a grand piano in the living room.  There are two bedrooms, one with a bed so big that if I coud find sheets to fit I could sleep on 1/3 of it every week and not do laundry more then every three weeks.  There are two bathrooms, one with a washing machine with too many buttons I know nothing about, a kitchen with a dishwaher that is alien to me and a convection oven I'm not going near.  But no where is there a drier.  I'm to hang my laundry on ropes off the balcony - I'll find a different way to dry my unmentionables thank you very much.  I haven't seen anyone else's up there. The foors are wood and the walls textured stucco.  Rooms are painted peach and yellow  and orange and one bathroom is painted silver.  There isn't a 90 degree corner in the place.  It's lovely.   The only problem there is a decrepted boxspring and mattress in the livingroom!  It must go!

The front door is steel with 4 dead bolts.  The first time I left I couldn't get back in.  I'd turn the key one way and nothing unlocked so I turned the key the other way; still locked.  Finally I got frustrated and just turned the key as many times as I could.  The door unlocked.  You have to turn the key to unlock as many times as you turned it to lock - up to 4 times.  Each turn makes the bolts longer.

Just got back from a Georgian meal and need to sleep it off.  Next blog will deal with the wonderful food here.

getting set

Only three days to go.  Took forever to find my insurance form - it was on a defunct e-mail account.  Got a year's worth of medicine and the co-pay was over $900 - and I'm healthy!  Recieved an e-mail on how to enter the country of Georgia and what my appartment is suppose to be like.  It's new and spacious in terms of Europe.  We will see; I really expected something the size of my kitchen.  Totally forgot about needing an eye check-up.  It's great being in a small community - they squeezed me in and then gave enough samples to get through the first couple months and a perscription for the rest.  Set up all sorts of POAs and ATM accts.  Also found out we could add international calling to our home phone for $6/mon for 30 min with rollover.  Along with Skype this should keep us in good communications.
Packed my suitcases to exactly 50lb each.  Have weighted them every which way.  Thought it was $100 per extra suitcase - turns out it's $200 so I started throwing and Goodwill lucks out.  Everything I need for a year (and then some) in four suitcases.

Washington DC

Took a four day trip to Washington DC so that when I'm "over there" I can intelligently talk about "over here".  Or at least be up to date on our National Heritage.  My sister had most of this trip planned and then we added to - ended up running from 6am to 7pm, putting in miles and miles, and took over 300 pictures.  Caught myself spending 2 hours on the top floor of the Holocaust museum.  What a fascinating/scary thing propaganda is.  The most relaxing time was listening to the pipe organ at the National Cathedral (all 15 minutes at the start of Evening Song).  Followed this by a mile speed walk to catch the Metro to Arlington cemetery to find them closing down.
My brother has been helping me set up my computer so I will have access to family, and English-language news and entertainment.  Now all I have left to do is get my Nook under control and figure out how to download the library books.  And get all the shots my sister thinks I need!

Getting Started

Back in Feb I attended an oversea teacher job fair at Northern Iowa University.  There I met the gentlemen from QSI and signed on to teach in Tbilisi, Republic of Georgia and thus starts the adventure.  They have a travel allowance so I set a limit of four suitcases and as soon as the cold weather was over (which in Nebraska this year was end of April) I packed winter clothes.  My daughter informed me I needed to dress nicer over there so I went bargain hunting.  Not sure what will be available so comforter, winter coats, boots, etc as well as towels, kitchen supplies, etc. are packed.  There's a roll of TP because I will arrive in the middle of the night and who wants to wake up to no TP!  That filled three suitcases.  I recieved a very nice retirement gift from the local school with which I purchased a very light weight sewing machine (I enjoy quilting).  The machine goes into my carry-on.  The suitcases can only weigh 50 lbs.  I went to the local hospital, weighted myself, went home and found out my scales are 8.5 lb off1  So I shoved material/books in to packed cases.  One case popped open so now I need to buy a suitcase belt.  Next was all my wellness check-ups and scheduling a haircut for the last possible minute.  How does one ask in Georgian to "take just a little off"?  I'm visiting family and friends, working on lesson pplans and waiting until it's time to pack summer clothes and go.