100 Cave Churches

Karabakh is the mountainous region (European Caucasus Minors) that boarders Republic of Armenia.  The brochure we picked up at the caves called the area the churches of Armenia but several years ago the two countries finally agreed the area belonged to Georgia (or as finally as any disagreement around here seems to be settled).  As we left Tbilisi we saw several cars parked along side the road with their tunks open.  Hanging from the trunk lid where hugh fish for sale.

We were soon climbing into the southern foothills and everything looked like dried weeds (can't even say grass).  The towns are a few buildings that appear deserted until you look closer.  Most have a very soviet appearance; aka. block structure with regimented window openings.  Most of the old apartment buildings (or barracks, not sure which) are used to store hay bales.  The terrain is very rough and it is hard to visualize how they can bale anything here.  Some areas have been burnt off so better grass can grow next spring.  There was electricity out there but I doubt if there was any other modern conveniences.  Had to use the restroom at the monastery - new experience.  Two places marked on the floor for your feet and a hole in the ground!

As we climbed even higher we started to see rectangles marked out as fields.  Some were connected and some were scattered.  They grow wheat up there and I saw some corn stubble.  Saw an implement dealer on the way out and one tractor on the road but none in the fields and none parked even near a field.  Actually there were no buildings of any kind in view of the fields.  But the terrain could have easily hid an entire compound.   

They graze a lot of sheep and goats, and occasionally a small herd of cows.  How those cows climb some of the hills is amazing.  Then we saw some at the monastery grazing as they headed down-hill - should have tumbled head over tail!

The road was paved most of the way but the potholes put any in Nebraska to shame.  And when the driver swerved around them I swear he always swerved to within an inch of the drop off.  No wonder they pray a lot.

We went up to visit the church caves.  These are actual man-made caves carved into the face of solid rock cliffs.  There is reputed to be 100 of them; many you can see by looking up but can’t climb there.  They were discovered by a monk in 400AD and estimated to have been built in 200AD.  It is still a monastery today but they have two solar panels and a satellite dish!  The monk’s homes are carved into the rock around a central court and they get to them by climbing steppes also carved into the rock.  They have large underground cisterns to collect water and a systems of canals dug into the rock face to direct runoff to the cisterns.  I would estimate the face was a 60 degree slope so how they carved the canals is a big question.
We then hiked around the back of the mountains and on up to the top, which took almost 2 hours.   The trail was narrow and rocky and there were some pretty nasty drop-offs close to the trail side.  What we were following was the Armenian/Georgian boarder which is marked by a metal pipe.  Sometimes we were on the wrong side so I get to say I was in Armenia!  We  ate in a cave were one of Armenia’s Kings hid out.  While there two border guards with their machine guns came by and checked us out.  They were Georgian and I wondered what would have happened if they had been Armenian; but Julia said it s no different than being checked at the airport.  I really don’t remember any machine guns at Eppley!
The cave churches were amazing.  They had not only carved out the caves in a shear wall facing the Armenian foothills but they had carved in altars and kneeling benches.  Then they had somehow hauled a plaster up there and painted the walls and ceilings with frescos.  Some of these ceilings were 10 feet high and openings were flush with a tremendous drop-off.  The paintings were very well done and still bright even though painted 200 AD and exposed to the elements.  No known explatation.

One monk still lives up there.  He has a door constructed in the cave opening but access was by a 2 by 8 with a second chunk of board nailed to the end to make it long enough, and no reinforcement.  There are two cross rungs starting 6 feet up (assumed he had to nail on another when he climbed up but took it off otherwise so no one could bother him).  If that wasn’t scary enough, the edge of the board was propped only 4 inches from the face of the cliff.  Hope he doesn't sleep walk as there is no where to go but down.

Could look out for miles across Armenia, just rolling foothills and a large lake in the distance.  Very quiet and peaceful with a large eagle (or buzzard) riding the wind.  As we climbed down the bells were ringing for vespers and the sun was begining to set.