holiday lights in Tbilisi

The holiday lights have finally come on.  Each morning and every evening I would expectantly check them out.  Yes, I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark, but hopefully don’t work in the dark.  The lights have finally lit up and what a fairy world the streets have become especially in the morning when there is so little traffic on them.  Above Chavchavadze Street floats large chandeliers while what appear to be enormous lit Christmas ornaments of the Cinderella ilk float above Rushevilli.  Icicles literally drip down above side streets while other streets have poinsettias hanging above them. (There are tubes hanging among the icicle lights that have a slow moving spot of light constantly drifting down.)  The many bridges over the river are outlined in lights, plus one bridge is cover with a complete canopy of lights while several others have small winged chandeliers hanging above.  Other streets have doves and elm leaves suspended above them, or strings of stars.  The only angles I’ve seen are large ‘lawn ornaments’ outside the Parliament building.  Stores do have Christmas trees but they are not traditional to the culture.  The western version of Santa is becoming known here in Tbilisi as there are so many Americans present.  The Georgian Santa is a friendly grandfatherly figure that lives in the mountains.  But they both bring presents to good little boys and girls.  Only the Georgian children have to wait until Jan 7, Epiphany, as Dec 25 is not a major celebrated holiday by the Church.  As I will be back here by the 7^th I will be able to enjoy both, and bring gifts back from the states.

New breed of store clerks

As I take my weekly walk down Chavchavadze towards Freedom Square I pass a jewelry store.  And usually I just pass the window and stare appreciatively at the necklaces.  I ventured in once but the clerk gave me the distinct warning that I was not wealthy enough to afford their wares.  Oh those who don’t understand what blue jean pockets can hold.  So pass by I did until one necklace caught my eye, a cascade of enamel butterflies forming a V with some riding higher than others.  In I went to brave the skepticism of the clerk.  But a man was on duty that day so I ventured to ask the price.  As he leaned into the showcase to read the price tag a very, very business-like pistol protruded from his waistband.   He quoted me 19,000 Lari.  I think he added an extra zero but with his armed advantage I didn’t question, just walked out.  Bought a different necklace at a bazaar.  Running up and down Chavchavadze are little yellow buses called marshrutkas.  These are frightening experiences for foreigners or at least this foreigner and I have never tried one as they are decrepit, crowded and confusing.  But as I partook in my window shopping one day out stepped three black clad armed guards; seriously armed guards, like with sawed off machineguns.  As they approached the jewelry store I thought “What did those Georgian passengers think of standing tightly together with a machinegun pressed against one’s spine”.  But looking at the people in the departing bus no one seemed to have noticed!

100 Cave Churches

Karabakh is the mountainous region (European Caucasus Minors) that boarders Republic of Armenia.  The brochure we picked up at the caves called the area the churches of Armenia but several years ago the two countries finally agreed the area belonged to Georgia (or as finally as any disagreement around here seems to be settled).  As we left Tbilisi we saw several cars parked along side the road with their tunks open.  Hanging from the trunk lid where hugh fish for sale.

We were soon climbing into the southern foothills and everything looked like dried weeds (can't even say grass).  The towns are a few buildings that appear deserted until you look closer.  Most have a very soviet appearance; aka. block structure with regimented window openings.  Most of the old apartment buildings (or barracks, not sure which) are used to store hay bales.  The terrain is very rough and it is hard to visualize how they can bale anything here.  Some areas have been burnt off so better grass can grow next spring.  There was electricity out there but I doubt if there was any other modern conveniences.  Had to use the restroom at the monastery - new experience.  Two places marked on the floor for your feet and a hole in the ground!

As we climbed even higher we started to see rectangles marked out as fields.  Some were connected and some were scattered.  They grow wheat up there and I saw some corn stubble.  Saw an implement dealer on the way out and one tractor on the road but none in the fields and none parked even near a field.  Actually there were no buildings of any kind in view of the fields.  But the terrain could have easily hid an entire compound.   

They graze a lot of sheep and goats, and occasionally a small herd of cows.  How those cows climb some of the hills is amazing.  Then we saw some at the monastery grazing as they headed down-hill - should have tumbled head over tail!

The road was paved most of the way but the potholes put any in Nebraska to shame.  And when the driver swerved around them I swear he always swerved to within an inch of the drop off.  No wonder they pray a lot.

We went up to visit the church caves.  These are actual man-made caves carved into the face of solid rock cliffs.  There is reputed to be 100 of them; many you can see by looking up but can’t climb there.  They were discovered by a monk in 400AD and estimated to have been built in 200AD.  It is still a monastery today but they have two solar panels and a satellite dish!  The monk’s homes are carved into the rock around a central court and they get to them by climbing steppes also carved into the rock.  They have large underground cisterns to collect water and a systems of canals dug into the rock face to direct runoff to the cisterns.  I would estimate the face was a 60 degree slope so how they carved the canals is a big question.
We then hiked around the back of the mountains and on up to the top, which took almost 2 hours.   The trail was narrow and rocky and there were some pretty nasty drop-offs close to the trail side.  What we were following was the Armenian/Georgian boarder which is marked by a metal pipe.  Sometimes we were on the wrong side so I get to say I was in Armenia!  We  ate in a cave were one of Armenia’s Kings hid out.  While there two border guards with their machine guns came by and checked us out.  They were Georgian and I wondered what would have happened if they had been Armenian; but Julia said it s no different than being checked at the airport.  I really don’t remember any machine guns at Eppley!
The cave churches were amazing.  They had not only carved out the caves in a shear wall facing the Armenian foothills but they had carved in altars and kneeling benches.  Then they had somehow hauled a plaster up there and painted the walls and ceilings with frescos.  Some of these ceilings were 10 feet high and openings were flush with a tremendous drop-off.  The paintings were very well done and still bright even though painted 200 AD and exposed to the elements.  No known explatation.

One monk still lives up there.  He has a door constructed in the cave opening but access was by a 2 by 8 with a second chunk of board nailed to the end to make it long enough, and no reinforcement.  There are two cross rungs starting 6 feet up (assumed he had to nail on another when he climbed up but took it off otherwise so no one could bother him).  If that wasn’t scary enough, the edge of the board was propped only 4 inches from the face of the cliff.  Hope he doesn't sleep walk as there is no where to go but down.

Could look out for miles across Armenia, just rolling foothills and a large lake in the distance.  Very quiet and peaceful with a large eagle (or buzzard) riding the wind.  As we climbed down the bells were ringing for vespers and the sun was begining to set.

Another Cultural Evening

Thursday had a strange Georgian cultural evening.  Went out for supper - ordered pickles (which consisted of a sliced dill, 3 pickled banana peppers and what I swear was pickled mustard weed like what I used to cut out of the soybeans!), mixed olives (all where the same black olives)and Georgian bread selection (they selected one loaf).  I made sandwhich out of all of it together and liked it!  Not sure which part of this was the strangest.  We started at 5:30 and sudddenly realized it was 1 1/2 hours later - eating just takes forever.  But trying to hurry anyone to give you your bill just doesn't happen. 

Grabbed a taxi and showed him our theater tickets with the address in Georgian on it.  He had no idea where the street was (even I knew how to get there).  So had to find a second taxi - he thought he knew.  We thought we would be late by the time the driver stopped for the third time to ask for directions.  Ended up on this two lane street with 3 lanes of cars headed towards the theater and one car trying to leave.  At that point we got out and walked.  Therre were two amazing theaters on the next block; one with people standing around and one with no one.  Later I found out the large beautifully lit building was an empty shell they are just now starting to renovate.  The theater we were in was just finished this year and is amazing with marble pillars and floors, plaster murals and glass doors on the bathrooms!  The show was of Georgian folk singing; which started out with this lecture on the folk singing group of past fame.  Or so I think that was what was going on as everything was in Georgian and afterwards two elderly gentleman came forward to a lot of aplause and whistles.  (Must have been the Georgian answer to the Beatles.)  Then the different groups came out; very unique singing, something called polyphonic singing.  The last group, professionals that backup an international dance group, were amazing.  They had such volume and resonance their voices filled the hall.  But for me, the most enjoyable was the all women's band that played instruments I never seen before, string and wind, as well as drums, with fingers moving so fast I couldn't see them.  One instrument was played as a fiddle held in her lap which a bow that looked like a hacksaw but the 'fiddle' also had a neck that she blew in and played like a flute!  All done at the same time.  I need to ask one of my students what the instrument is called and what this type of combo is called.  Afterwards, as I waited for my group to meet at the door I once again noticed the strange phenomina: every woman was wearing black, including me!

Turkish Baths

Several of us teachers went to the Turish baths last night.  One of the old-timers (anyone here more than 2 years) convinced us new-timers to try it.  When he said bathing suits I was in.  It was fun.  Went to Old Town, where Tbilisis started.  There are six different baths run by different entities.  Each bath has several rooms you can rent. The one we went to used to be a mosque.  Beautiful mosaics outside and very clean inside.  The sulfur smell is rather overwhelming to start but the water was a welcoming hot and the cold plunge pool was cold enough to cool the beers.  Two of the ladies had scrubs and couldn't believe the dead skin that peeled off.  I may have to try that if I go the next time.  As we came out the hills above us were lit and we could see the ruins of the old castle and church high above us.  The air was warm and friendly.
Went out to eat afterwards, of course, and tried a number of Georgian foods.  Not real excited about any of it, though the others thought the food delicous.  I liked the spinach spread and the grits with cheese best; but definitely not the gravey for the grits.  The company was great and the live music enjoyable so definitely a fun night.
Just received my first engraved invite to an embassy function, a b-b-q.  Now that sounds like good eating.

grocery stores

Just came back from trying to find lemon jello for a science lab.  Couldn't find any jello anywhere.  Come to think of it there has been no jello dishes at any of our potluck dinners.  Need to change that for next year.

Also noticed in our "big" grocery store there are two aisles of cooking oil, 6 of liquor and 4 for everything else.  Priorities!  A one-cup jar of peanut butter is 6 gel (about $4 American) and tuna is a find.  If you find a foreign brand of something you want get it because it is quite possible you will never see it again.  There is Coke Zero but that is the only diet pop available.  It is good with fresh lime squeezed in.  Bread is cheap; I found a flat loaf probably a foot diameter and 2inch high for .80 gel (50 cents) and it was tastey.  Grapefruit is 6 gel ($4) each! But the streets are full of apple, plum and pear vendors.  I usually shop the streets.

School

Several have asked about the school I teach in.  It is an American School which means it is modeled after those in the states.  This allows students to move more freely between foreign and domestic schools.  Some students are here for two years, some for three. Rarely do they stay any longer.  Some parents are with the US embassy, World Bank, USAid and American businesses starting up here.  One is an international laywer.

Twenty-six nations are represented in the student body and after school many different languages are being spoken.  Today one student told me he speaks 5 different languages fluently - and listed them.  He has lived in numerous countries and has picked up their languages.  I'm living here and can now say good morning (gila mashvidobisa)  I don't greet anyone in the afternoon!  They start the 4-yr-olds with Russian; and they pick it up quickly.  Students have the choice of Russian, German, or French.  We also teach numerous Advance Placement classes with some students graduating with five AP courses.

My largest class is 13 students and the smallest is 4.  Several elementary classes have over 15 students but any more and they get another teacher.  The school is run by an organization headquartered in the US.

When we arrive in the morning the gate must be opened and the under carriage of the car checked for bombs.  There are guards on duty 24/7 but the building is never locked nor are classroom doors closed.

The school pays the locals relatively well which resultts in our having an MD on staff full time, and highly educated elementary class room aids.  One Para is an MD who also has her CPA; another is an archeologist and one I just got to know has her MS is something I don't remember what.

Labs are well set up, lab materials sent in each year; but I can not find yellow jello for my cell lab!  I'll order it for next year.